ABSINTHE
MAKES THE HEART GROW FONDER: PART I
Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, Charles
Baudelaire, Paul Verlaine, Arthur Rimbaud, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Amedeo
Modigliani, Pablo Picasso, Vincent van Gogh, Oscar Wilde, Marcel Proust,
Aleister Crowley, Erik Satie, Edgar Allan Poe, Lord Byron and Alfred Jarry all
drank It has been talked about, written about, sung about, written about, and
the subject of paintings and posters.
L'Absinthe, by Edgar Degas (1876)
Simply put,
absinthe is historically described as a distilled, highly
alcoholic (90–148 U.S. proof) spirit, anise-flavoured
derived from botanicals, including the flowers and leaves of Artemisia
absinthium ("grand wormwood"), together with green anise, sweet
fennel, and other medicinal and culinary herbs. It traditionally has a natural green colour but may also be
colourless. In
literature and common usage during the 19th and early 20th centuries, it was
referred to as "la fée verte"
("the green fairy"). Although it is sometimes mistakenly referred to
as a liqueur, absinthe is not traditionally bottled with added sugar; it is
therefore classified as a spirit, traditionally bottled at a high level of
alcohol by volume, normally diluted with water prior to being consumed by all
but the die-hards imbibers.
Green Muse by Albert Maignan (1895)
Absinthe originated in the canton of
Neuchâtel in Switzerland in the late 18th century. It rose to great
popularity as an alcoholic drink in late 19th- and early 20th-century
France, particularly among Parisian artists and writers. Owing in part to its
association with bohemian culture, the consumption of absinthe was opposed by
social conservatives and prohibitionists.
By Henri Privat-Livermont (1896)
Absinthe has often been portrayed as a
dangerously addictive psychoactive drug and hallucinogen by the righteous and
self-righteous. The chemical compound thujone, although present in the spirit
in only trace amounts, was blamed for its alleged harmful effects. By 1915,
absinthe had been banned in the United States and in much of Europe, including
France, the Netherlands, Belgium, Switzerland and Austria-Hungary. Although
absinthe was vilified, it has not been demonstrated to be any more dangerous
than ordinary spirits. Recent studies have shown that absinthe's psychoactive
properties (apart from that of the alcohol) have been exaggerated. A revival
of absinthe began in the 1990s, following the adoption of modern European Union
food and beverage laws that removed longstanding barriers to its production and
sale. By the early 21st century, nearly 200 brands of absinthe were being
produced in a dozen countries, most notably in France, Switzerland, Australia,
Spain, and the Czech Republic. Not so much in the United States, as I shall
explain…
In 2007, the
Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) effectively lifted the
long-standing absinthe ban, and has
approved many brands for sale in the US market. This was made possible partly
through the TTB's clarification of the Food and Drug Administration's thujone content regulations, which specify
that finished food and beverages that contain Artemisia species must be
thujone-free; thus, the TTB considers a product thujone-free if the thujone
content is less than 10 ppm. The import, distribution, and sale of absinthe is
permitted subject to the following restrictions:
The product must
be thujone-free as per TTB guidelines,
The word
"absinthe" can neither be the brand name nor stand alone on the
label, and
The packaging
cannot "project images of hallucinogenic, psychotropic, or mind-altering
effects."
Absinthe imported
in violation of these regulations is subject to seizure at the discretion of
U.S. Customs and Border Protection.
More,
including the early history and lore of absinthe next time.
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